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Kerala Gallery Page 3
About 31 miles (50 km) southeast
of Alleppey, near the town of Chengannur, is Aranmula, where the second
of the most famous boat races is held. Aranmula, on the banks of the placid
river Pamba, is a pilgrim centre where the temple is dedicated to Lord
Parthasara-thy - Lord Krishna in the role of chari-oteer to Arjuna - and
its boat race is part of the temple ritual. The annual commemoration of
the deity's installation is celebrated on the last day of the week-long
Onam festival. It is on this auspicious day (in August September, though
the day changes from year to year according to the Malayalam calendar)
that the snake boats race against each other on the river Pamba, thousands
of singers churning up the calm waters of the river with their short oars
that plunge in and out of the waters in time to the chanted beat.
Other boat races are held in
Kot-tayam, but almost every backwater in this part of Kerala celebrates
Onam by taking to the water. The Cochin and Kottayam races are of recent
origin and are more in the nature of sport than of religious ritual. But
at Payipad, 2 miles (3 km) from Haripad, where there is a famous temple
of Lord Subramaniya, the races are associated with the temple festival.
The three-day festival starts on Onam day, and on the first 2 days snake
boat processions are held on the Acharkovil river. The third day is race
day, the climax of the festival.
Approximately 15 miles (25
km) as the crow flies from Alleppey is the prosperous town of Kottayam.
In fact, it is the first town in India to attain 100 percent literacy.
A major commercial centre of Kerala, Kottayam lies in the foothills of
the Western Ghats, beautiful backwaters to its west and scenic, fertile
mountains to its east. A major centre of the trade in rubber, tea, coffee,
pepper, cardamom (Kerala is the original home of cardamom), and other produce
from the plantations to its east, Kottayam's prosperity is echoed in the
city's facilities.

A major educational and Malayalam
publishing centre, Kottayam is a city of handsomely built schools, commercial
complexes and civic facilities. It also has the most successful writers'
cooperative in India, and its publishing activity is phenomenal. But Kottayam
has a strong spiritual side to it too. There are several sects and divisions
of the Syrian Christian faith due to the influ-ence of history over the
years, and many of them have their episcopal seats here.
The best known churches
are the historic Valia Palli and Cheria Palli, both with colourful frescoes
enriching their dim interiors. In the 9th century Valia Palli, there are
Pahlavi inscriptions and a stone cross said to have been carved by St Thomas.
This cross, it is believed, came from the first church Thomas founded in
Kerala, in Kodungallur.
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