Introduction Leh Ladakh
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Ladakh is a region
in the disputed state of Jammu and Kashmir between the Kunlun mountain
range in the north and the main Great Himalayas to the south, inhabited
by people of Indo-Aryan and Tibetan descent. It is one of the most sparsely
populated regions in Kashmir. Historically, the region included the Baltistan
(Baltiyul) valleys, the Indus Valley, the remote Zangskar, Lahaul and Spiti
to the south, Ngari including the Rudok region and Guge in the east, and
Nubra valleys to the north over Khardung La in the Ladakh mountain range.
Contemporary Ladakh borders Tibet to the east, the Lahaul and Spiti to
the south, the Vale of Kashmir, Jammu and Baltiyul regions to the west,
and the trans–Kunlun territory of East Turkistan in Central Asia on the
other side of the Kunlun range in Kashmir to the north. Running southwest
to northeast, the Altyn Tagh converges with the Kunlun range in Kashmir
which runs southeast to northwest forming a "V" shape which converges at
Pulu. The geographical divide between Ladakh in the highlands of Kashmir
and the Tibetan Plateau commences in the vicinity of Pulu and continues
southwards along the intricate maze of ridges situated east of Rudok, wherein
are situated Aling Kangri and Mavang Kangri and culminates in the vicinity
of Mayum La.
Ladakh is renowned for its
remote mountain beauty and culture. It is sometimes called "Little Tibet"
as it has been strongly influenced by Tibetan culture. In the past Ladakh
gained importance from its strategic location at the crossroads of important
trade routes, but since the Chinese authorities closed the borders with
Tibet and Central Asia in the 1960s, international trade has dwindled.
Since 1974 the Indian Government has encouraged tourism in Ladakh although
it still remains a disputed territory between India and Pakistan.
The largest town in Ladakh
is Leh. A majority of Ladakhis are Tibetan Buddhists and the majority of
the remainder are Shia Muslims. Ladakhis have in recent times called for
Ladakh to be constituted as a union territory because of its religious
and cultural differences with predominantly Muslim Kashmir.
Rock carvings have been found
in many parts of Ladakh, showing that the area has been inhabited from
the Neolithic times. Ladakh's earliest inhabitants consisted of a mixed
Indo-Aryan population of Mons and Dards, who find mention in the works
of Herodotus, Nearchus, Megasthenes, Pliny, Ptolemy and the geographical
lists of the Puranas. Around the 1st century, Ladakh was a part of the
Kushana empire. Buddhism came to western Ladakh via Kashmir in the 2nd
century when much of eastern Ladakh and western Tibet was still practising
the Bon religion. The 7th century Buddhist traveler Xuanzang also describes
the region in his accounts.
In the 8th century, Ladakh
was involved in the clash between Tibetan expansion pressing from the East
and Chinese influence exerted from Central Asia through the passes, and
suzerainty over Ladakh frequently changed hands between China and Tibet.
In 842 Nyima-Gon, a Tibetan royal representative annexed Ladakh for himself
after the break-up of the Tibetan empire, and founded a separate Ladakh
dynasty. During this period Ladakh underwent Tibetanization resulting in
a predominantly Tibetan population. The dynasty spearheaded the "Second
Spreading of Buddhism" importing religious ideas from north-west India,
particularly from Kashmir.
Faced with the Islamic conquest
of South Asia in the 13th century, Ladakh chose to seek and accept guidance
in religious matters from Tibet. For nearly two centuries, till about 1600,
Ladakh was subject to raids and invasions from neighbouring Muslim states,
which led to weakening and fracturing of Ladakh, and partial conversion
of Ladakhis to Islam
King Bhagan reunited and
strengthened Ladakh and founded the Namgyal dynasty which survives
even today. The Namgyals repelled most Central Asian raiders and temporarily
extended the kingdom as far as Nepal, in the face of concerted attempts
to convert the region to Islam and destroy Buddhist artifacts. In the early
17th century efforts were made to restore destroyed artifacts and gompas,
and the kingdom expanded into Zangskar and Spiti. Ladakh was, however defeated
by the Mughals, who had already annexed Kashmir and Baltistan, but it retained
its independence.
In the late 17th century, Ladakh
sided with Bhutan in its dispute with Tibet, which resulted in an invasion
by Tibet. Kashmiri help restored Ladakhi rule on the condition of that
a mosque be built in Leh and that the Ladakhi king convert to Islam. The
Treaty of Temisgam in 1684 settled the dispute between Tibet and Ladakh,
but its independence was severely restricted. In 1834, the Dogras under
Zorawar Singh, a general of Ranjit Singh invaded and annexed Ladakh. A
Ladakhi rebellion in 1842 was crushed and Ladakh was incorporated into
the Dogra state of Jammu and Kashmir. The Namgyal family was given the
jagir of Stok, which it nominally retains to this day. Starting from the
1850s, European influence increased in Ladakh — geologists, sportsmen and
tourists started exploring Ladakh. In 1885, Leh became the headquarters
of a mission of the Moravian Church.
At the time of the partition
of India in 1947, the Dogra ruler Maharaja Hari Singh was undecided whether
to accede to the Indian Union or to Pakistan. The Indian government sent
troops into the princely state after the ruler signed the Instrument of
Accession. In 1949, China closed the border between Nubra and Xinjiang,
blocking old trade routes. The Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1950 led to
a large influx of Tibetan refugees to the region. In 1962 China invaded
and occupied Aksai Chin, and promptly built roads connecting Xinjiang and
Tibet through it. It also built the Karakoram highway jointly with Pakistan.
India built the Srinagar-Leh highway during this period, cutting the journey
time between Srinagar to Leh from 16 days to two. The entire state of Jammu
and Kashmir continues to be the subject of a territorial dispute between
India on the one hand and Pakistan and China on the other. Kargil was a
scene of fighting in the wars of 1947, 1965, 1971 and the focal point of
a potential nuclear conflict during the Kargil War in 1999. The region
was bifurcated into Kargil and Leh districts in 1979. In 1989, there were
violent riots between Buddhists and Muslims. Following demands for autonomy
from the Kashmiri dominated state government, the Ladakh Autonomous Hill
Development Council was created in 1993.
For centuries, Ladakh enjoyed
a stable and self-reliant agricultural economy based on growing barley,
wheat and peas, and keeping livestock, especially yak, dzos (yak-cow cross
breed), cows, sheep and goats. At altitudes of 3,000 to 4,300 m (10,000
to 14,000 ft), the growing season is only a few months long every year,
similar to the northern countries of the world. Animals are scarce and
water is in short supply. The Ladakhis developed a small-scale farming
system adapted to this unique environment. The land is irrigated by a system
of channels which funnel water from the ice and snow of the mountains.
The principal crops are barley and wheat. Rice was previously a luxury
in the Ladakhi diet, but, subsidised by the government, has now become
a cheap staple.
At lower elevations fruit
is grown, while the high altitude Rupshu region is the preserve of nomadic
herders. In the past, surplus produce was traded for tea, sugar, salt and
other items. Two items for export are apricots and pashmina. Currently,
the largest commercially sold agricultural product is vegetables, sold
in large amounts to the Indian army as well as in the local market. Production
remains mainly in the hands of small-landowners who work their own land,
often with the help of migrant labourers from Nepal. Naked barley
was traditionally a staple crop all over Ladakh. Growing times vary considerably
with altitude. The extreme limit of cultivation is at Korzok, on the Tso-moriri
lake, at 4,600 m (15,100 ft), which are widely considered to be the highest
fields in the world.
In the past Ladakh's geographical
position at the crossroads of some of the most important trade routes in
Asia was exploited to the full. Ladakhis collected tax on goods that crossed
their kingdom from Turkestan, Tibet, Punjab, Kashmir and Baltistan. A minority
of Ladakhi people were also employed as merchants and caravan traders,
facilitating trade in textiles, carpets, dyestuffs and narcotics between
Punjab and Xinjiang. However, since the Chinese Government closed the borders
with Tibet and Central Asia, this international trade has completely dried
up. Since 1974, the Indian Government has encouraged a shift in trekking
and other tourist activities from the troubled Kashmir region to the relatively
unaffected areas of Ladakh. Although tourism employs only 4% of Ladakh's
working population, it now accounts for 50% of the region's GNP. Extensive
government employment and large-scale infrastructure projects — including,
crucially, road links — have helped consolidate the new economy and create
an urban alternative to farming. Subsidised food, government jobs, tourism
industry, and new infrastructure have accelerated a mass migration from
the farms into Leh town.
Adventure tourism in Ladakh
started in the 19th century. By the turn of the 20th century, it was not
uncommon for British officials to undertake the 14-day trek from Srinagar
to Leh as part of their annual leave. Agencies were set up in Srinagar
and Shimla specialising in sports-related activities — hunting, fishing
and trekking. This era is recorded in Arthur Neves The Tourist's Guide
to Kashmir, Ladakh and Skardo, first published in 1911. Today, about 30,000
tourists visit Ladakh every year. Among the popular places of tourist interest
include Leh, Drass valley, Suru valley, Kargil, Zangskar, Zangla, Rangdum,
Padum, Phugthal, Sani, Stongdey, Shyok Valley, Sankoo, Salt Valley and
several popular trek routes like Manali to Ladakh, the Nubra valley, the
Indus valley etc
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