The back wall of Devi Jagdamba Temple,
facing west, has as its principal
characters the Hindu trinity, depicted
in
a somewhat unusual manner. The figure
in the lower band is that of Vamana, the
dwarf incarnation of Vishnu; the central
band has Shiva in his Mrityunjaya (one
who has conquered death) manifestation;
the upper band, Brahma with his consort
Savitri
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We reached Khajuraho at around
10:00 am and were welcomed into the little sleepy village, by a beautiful
granite statue, dedicated to the unknown sculptor of Khajuraho. The words
carrying a tone of awed mystery increased our enthusiasm of having entered
the land of the erotic and exotic one-of-their-kind temple art. The initial
enthusiasm was slightly chastised when out of the blue our taxi stopped
in front of Hotel Zen in a not-so-picturesque area in Khajuraho.
My initial reaction was that
this is not a Hotel, but a Lodge, with no view. Inside the Hotel, where
we had booked rooms online, we were greeted by overgrown vegetation, a
strange waterfall on a dirty homegrown lotus pond with Buddha statues,
untended plants in the name of a vegetable garden, a big beehive, lots
of insects, huge lizards and an over-priced tourist menu. The rooms were
bare, and the linen had holes, and the service was even worse. One of the
caretakers had the audacity to wear a t-shirt to work that read, “I am
not paid enough to be good to you!” The message was crystal clear and so
was their attitude - you had to beg for tissue-paper, make do with one
single-bed blanket in a room for two, and have your meals in restaurants,
other than the Hotel’s because cornflakes and milk was served at Rs 170.
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